[JT]

Craig, you’re basically on the right track with it.
As long as the work lights are on their own separate switches, that’s exactly how you’d want to do it. You don’t want them tied into your normal headlights at all.
For MOT, the main thing is they can’t interfere with your regular road lights or dazzle anyone. So:
Don’t have them coming on with dipped or main beam
Make sure they’re only operable via their own switches
Rear ones especially shouldn’t be chucking out white light while you’re driving normally

Plenty of people fit work lights on pickups/farm trucks and it’s usually fine. Where it can get picky is if:
Front ones look like driving lamps and act like main beam
Rear ones could be mistaken for reversing lights or blind someone

Labelling them “work lights” is a nice touch, and if you really want to play it safe some people stick covers on for MOT—but most testers are fine if it’s obvious what they are and they’re wired properly.

[JT]

Will make an interesting discussion topic, thanks for the feedback

[JT]

There is also an interesting article about motorbike glare headlights. It’s not just a car issue these days.

[JT]

As long as you’re doing the retest properly, you’re only responsible for what you’re testing on the day. With a retest, you’re checking the failed items – but you’re still carrying out a full MOT, so if you spot anything else (whether it was missed before or not) you need to deal with it there and then. Don’t rely on what the previous tester did or didn’t pick up – treat it like any other test and cover yourself. As for appeals, DVSA will look at your test if you passed it. So if something obvious was missed and should’ve been picked up, it can still come back on you.

Basically:
Check the original fails are properly repaired
Keep an eye on the advisories
Do a proper full test, not just a quick retest
Don’t assume the last tester got it right

If you do all that, you’ve done your job and you’re covered

[JT]

As long as you’re doing the retest properly, you’re only responsible for what you’re testing on the day. With a retest, you’re checking the failed items – but you’re still carrying out a full MOT, so if you spot anything else (whether it was missed before or not) you need to deal with it there and then. Don’t rely on what the previous tester did or didn’t pick up – treat it like any other test and cover yourself. As for appeals, DVSA will look at your test if you passed it. So if something obvious was missed and should’ve been picked up, it can still come back on you.

Basically:
Check the original fails are properly repaired
Keep an eye on the advisories
Do a proper full test, not just a quick retest
Don’t assume the last tester got it right

If you do all that, you’ve done your job and you’re covered

[JT]

No mate, once you’ve passed it on MTS that’s it – you can’t undo or cancel it yourself.

If you’ve done one by mistake, you need to get onto DVSA asap (usually via your AE). They’re the only ones who can amend or remove a test record.

Just be aware it’ll likely get looked at as an incorrect test decision, so best thing is to be upfront and deal with it straight away rather than leave it.

And if the car shouldn’t have passed, definitely give the customer a heads up not to drive it.

[JT]

No mate, once you’ve passed it on MTS that’s it – you can’t undo or cancel it yourself.

If you’ve done one by mistake, you need to get onto DVSA asap (usually via your AE). They’re the only ones who can amend or remove a test record.

Just be aware it’ll likely get looked at as an incorrect test decision, so best thing is to be upfront and deal with it straight away rather than leave it.

And if the car shouldn’t have passed, definitely give the customer a heads up not to drive it.

[JT]

SubMan – this is difficult to say without seeing it but on a driving test, it’s not about an exact “pass/fail size” as such – the examiner will simply refuse to go out if the car isn’t roadworthy or the view is affected. As a good rule of thumb (based on MOT/DVSA guidance): In the driver’s direct line of sight (Zone A) – any chip/crack over 10mm is a fail
Elsewhere in the swept area – anything over 40mm is a fail
But more importantly for a driving test: If the crack obstructs the driver’s view at all, they can refuse to start the test
Even smaller cracks can be an issue if they cause glare or distraction
Simple advice: If it’s anywhere near the driver’s eyeline, or bigger than a small chip, get it repaired before the test. It’s not worth risking a cancelled test slot. In short: tiny chips are usually fine, but anything noticeable in front of the driver = likely no test.

[JT]

The supply voltage of the DGA 1800 is unstable or deviates excessively from the required mains voltage of 230V.

[Author]

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